Shoe care
Before you start
Good care is not about owning a shelf of products. It is a calm routine. A little, often, beats
a lot, rarely. When in doubt, do less rather than over-treat.
Three rules that always apply
• Patch test first. Any aftercare can shift colour and finish. Test on a hidden area and let it dry fully.
• No direct heat. Avoid radiators, underfloor heating and hair dryers. Dry at room temperature.
• Keep it clean. Remove dirt when it is dry. Rubbing wet mud only pushes it into the material.
A simple toolkit
• Soft brush (for dust and dry dirt).
• Microfibre cloth or clean cotton cloth (for wiping).
• Mild shoe cleaner / cleaning foam suited for footwear.
• Water-repellent protector suited to the material (suede/nubuck/textile vs. leather) - always patch test first.
• Suede brush + suede eraser (for stains and refresh).
• Neutral leather cream / conditioner for smooth leather (for moisture and finish).
• Shoe trees (ideally cedar) for leather shoes/loafers to help keep shape and manage moisture.
• Paper (not glossy magazine paper) for drying shoes from the inside.
Leather
Smooth leather is the most forgiving everyday material. Tumbled leather has more texture and often hides small marks better.
How to
• Wipe off dust and surface dirt with a dry cloth or a soft brush.
• If needed: use a mild leather-appropriate cleaner. Let the shoe dry fully.
• Apply a thin layer of neutral leather cream/conditioner. Let it absorb, then buff with a clean cloth.
• If the shoe gets wet: stuff with paper, shape lightly, and let it dry slowly.
Do - Leather
• Use small amounts of product.
• Buff in calm, long strokes for an even finish.
• Use shoe trees when the shoes are not worn.
Don't - Leather
• Do not soak the leather in oils/grease - it can soften unevenly and stain.
• Avoid harsh all-purpose cleaners with solvents.
• Do not dry wet shoes on heat.
Polido leather
Polido has a tighter, smoother surface with a subtle sheen. It needs less product, but more precision.
How to
• Wipe with a clean cloth. For fingerprints, use a slightly damp cloth.
• For marks: clean very gently and locally, then let it dry fully.
• Use a neutral leather cream in a very thin layer. Buff to finish.
• Avoid building heavy layers - polido looks best clean and restrained.
Do - Polido Leather
• Keep the routine short: clean, condition, buff.
• Store with shoe trees to reduce deep creasing.
Don't - Polido Leather
• Do not use rough brushes or abrasive sponges on the surface.
• Avoid wet cleaning methods.
Suede
Suede gains character with wear, but it prefers a gentle approach. Most issues are solved by brushing - not by liquid.
How to
• If the shoe is damp, let it dry fully. Brush only once the suede is dry.
• Brush with a suede brush in one direction to lift the nap.
• Stains: use a suede eraser, then brush again.
• Protect with a suede-appropriate spray. Patch test first and apply in an even, light coat.
Do - Suede
• Brush regularly - it is the most important care step.
• Stay dry for as long as possible.
• Treat stains locally rather than washing the whole shoe.
Don't - Suede
• Do not rub wet suede - it creates shiny flat patches.
• Do not use leather cream on suede.
• Avoid over-saturating the shoe with spray or water.
Nubuck
Nubuck is sanded leather with a short, matte surface. It behaves like suede, but can be more sensitive to oils and liquids.
How to
• Remove dry dirt with a nubuck/suede brush.
• Stains: use a nubuck/suede eraser and brush up.
• Use a nubuck-appropriate protector. Expect a slight deepening of colour - always patch test.
• For deeper cleaning: use a cleaning foam suited for nubuck and work in small areas.
Do - Nubuck
• Keep hands and tools clean - nubuck picks up grease easily.
• Work in small sections and let dry between steps.
Don't - Nubuck
• Do not use oils, grease or leather conditioner.
• Avoid wiping the whole shoe with a wet cloth.
Oiled suede
Oiled suede is suede with a light oil treatment. It is often more weather-resistant, but also easier to ruin with the wrong care.
How to
• Brush dry like regular suede.
• If the surface looks flat: use a combined suede brush (rubber/nylon) to lift texture.
• Protect sparingly with a suede/nubuck-appropriate spray. Always patch test - oiled suede can change look.
• For stains: start dry (eraser). Only move to mild foam cleaner if necessary.
Do - Oiled suede
• Accept that the material lives - small tone shifts are normal.
• Keep care light and consistent.
Don't - Oiled suede
• Do not use heavy leather grease or conditioner.
• Do not try to “wash” the whole shoe.
Crazy Horse (oiled/waxed leather)
Crazy Horse is a pull-up leather where marks and lighter areas appear naturally. That is part of the look - and often easy to even out.
How to
• Wipe with a dry cloth. Many scuffs fade by rubbing lightly with your hand or a soft cloth.
• If needed: use a mild leather cleaner and let dry fully.
• Apply a conditioner made for oiled/waxed leather in a thin layer, then buff.
• After rain/slush: wipe, stuff with paper, and dry slowly.
Do - Crazy Horse
• Use a cloth (and a little warmth from the hand) to even out scuffs.
• Care rarely, but consistently.
Don't - Crazy Horse
• Do not over-saturate with grease - it can darken unevenly.
• Avoid aggressive cleaners.
Nylon/mesh & mixed-material uppers
Many styles combine textile (nylon/mesh) with leather or suede. The key is to treat each panel by its material type.
How to
• Start with a dry brush to remove dust and sand.
• Clean textile panels with a slightly damp cloth and mild foam cleaner. Work in small areas.
• Treat leather/suede separately.
• Let the shoe dry fully before any protector or wear.
Do - Nylon/mesh & mixed-material uppers
• Work panel by panel.
• Keep water and cleaner away from suede panels as much as possible.
Don't - Nylon/mesh & mixed-material uppers
• Do not use one “all-in-one” method across the whole shoe.
• Avoid soaking mesh/nylon in water.
Rubberised/coated leather (incl. rubberised leather & mudguards)
Coated surfaces are made to be practical: they wipe clean. They generally do not need leather conditioner.
How to
• Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. Use a mild soap solution if needed.
• Dry with a clean cloth to avoid water marks along edges and stitching.
• If the shoe has a rubberised mudguard: clean with a soft brush and mild soap - avoid abrasive tools.
Do - Rubberised/coated leather (incl. rubberised leather & mudguards)
• Keep it simple: cloth + mild soap.
• Clean often during winter.
Don't - Rubberised/coated leather (incl. rubberised leather & mudguards)
• Do not use leather grease/conditioner - it can mark coated surfaces.
• Avoid solvents and strong chemicals.
Outsoles
Most rubber outsoles stay clean with mild soap and a soft brush. The key is keeping water and soap away from the upper as much as possible.
Stain first aid
Water marks on suede/nubuck
Let dry fully. Brush up. If the mark remains, a very lightly damp cloth across the full panel can help even it out - but only after patch testing.
Oil on suede
Stay dry: eraser + brush. Avoid adding more products. For stubborn stains, a cobbler is the safest option.
Scuffs on smooth leather
Wipe clean. Use a small amount of neutral leather cream and buff. Start with the minimum.
Salt lines on leather
Wipe with a lightly damp cloth, let dry fully, then apply a thin layer of leather cream.
Textile/wool stains
Blot with a slightly damp cloth and a mild foam cleaner. No hard rubbing.
A simple maintenance rhythm
• After wear: brush/wipe off dust, especially on suede and textiles.
• After wet weather: wipe, stuff with paper, air dry. No heat.
• As needed: apply a light protector coat (typically more often in winter).
• 1-2 times per season (leather): light clean and a thin layer of neutral leather cream.
Important
Any aftercare is done at your own responsibility. Always follow the product instructions and patch test on a hidden area before you continue. If in doubt - or if a stain cannot be removed dry - a professional cobbler is the safest option.
When a cobbler makes the most sense
• If a stain cannot be removed dry, or if you are unsure what the material needs.
• If suede/nubuck has gone shiny and stiff after the wrong treatment.
• If the outsole wears unevenly or the heel goes down on one side.
• If glued parts start to separate, or if the leather cracks.